Understanding the Button 

A button is an object that is used in a garment either for the purpose of fastening or for ornamentation or both. Buttons are usually in the shape of a disc or a knob. Evidence shows that buttons have been used since as long back as 1500-2000 B.C. Buttons used in 2600-2800 B.C. have been excavated in the ancient Indus valley, while those used in 1500-2000 B.C. have been found in China as well as in Rome.

Materials used in buttons

Buttons can be made from a wide variety of materials – plastic, wood, brass, bone, horn, pearls, ivory, fabric, shells, glass, leather, stones, papier-mâché, ceramic and polymer clay.

Evolution of buttons

In the 13th century, buttons were used an ornament and then they began being used as a functional fastener in the 16th century. During the 15th and 16th centuries, buttons plated with gold and silver were popular among the noble class. In the 18th century, the trend of enamel buttons set in. In the early part of the 19th century, buttons made of fabric as well as glass and ceramics began to be used, though the glass and ceramic buttons were not very popular. By the middle of the 19th century, buttons made of shells, pearls, horn, steel and brass became popular. Towards the later part of the 19th century, enamel buttons made a comeback. By 1930, buttons began to be made using wood and plastic.

Buttons were initially introduced as a means of ornamentation of a garment, but in course of time, they began serving as fasteners. In the 1940s, men used to wear about 70 buttons on their garments, of which only a few were useful for fastening.

After the Second World War, buttons began to be used more for functional purposes than for decorative purposes.

Types of buttons

Buttons can be of different types, such as:

1) Flat buttons: Flat buttons have holes, so that they can be sewn on to garments. Such buttons might have 2 or 4 holes on their surface. Such buttons can be attached to the garment either manually or by using a sewing machine.

2) Shank buttons: Shank buttons have a shank, that is a small bar or ring, attached to their back. The buttons can be attached to the garment using this shank.

3) Covered buttons: Covered buttons refer to buttons that are made of fabric, which have an attachment on the back side. These buttons can be attached to a garment using this attachment.

4) Mandarin buttons: Mandarin buttons are made of intricately knotted strings. Sometimes such buttons are also used as cuff links.

5) Shirt collar expander buttons: Such buttons widen a tight shirt collar. This is done by creating a gap between the button and the buttonhole. This portion is concealed behind the neck tie.

On the basis of the way in which they are attached to a garment, buttons can be classified into two main types:

1) Sew-through buttons that is flat buttons which have holes on their surface and which can be directly sewn on to the garment.
2) Shaft buttons that is the buttons which have an attachment on the back side. Such buttons are sewn on to the garment using this attachment.

Button size

The size of a button is measured in ‘lignes’, which is also known as ‘lines’. The abbreviation for lignes is L. 40 L equal 1 inch.

Certain standard sizes of buttons have been commonly accepted. For men’s shirts, the standard size of the button is 16 L, which is equal to 10.16 mm. The commonly accepted button size for suit jackets is 32 L, which is equal to 20.32 mm.

Button loops

Sometimes button loops are also used in place of buttonholes. However, they are not as commonly used as buttonholes.

Buttonholes

Usually, buttonholes are used to fasten buttons. Buttonholes refer to slit cut into the fabric, the edges are covered with stitches.

The size of the buttonhole depends upon the size of the button. The commonly accepted size of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the button plus 1/8 inch.

Button holes can be created either manually or with the help of a machine.

Button holes are of different types, such as horizontal, vertical and keyhole type. Keyhole type buttonholes are those which have a round hole at the end of the slit. Such buttonholes are usually placed on suits and jackets.

Button holes are usually placed on the left side of a garment in case of men’s garments and on the right side in case of garments for women. Horizontal buttonholes are used on the central front part of a garment. However, when there is a central front panel in the garment, vertical buttonholes are used.

Buttonhole stitches

The stitches that are used on the edges of a buttonhole are called buttonhole stitches. Buttonhole stitches are similar to blanket stitches, but are shorter. The stitches are done very close together.